Stripped Screw? 6 Ways to Get It Out Anyway

Why do screws strip in the first place?

A cross-head recess is designed so the bit rides up and out when torque gets too high (“cam-out”). That protects the screw and tool in theory, but every slip chews a little metal out of the head. Typical causes:

• The wrong bit, e.g. PH in a PZ screw, or a bit that is too small.
• A worn bit with rounded edges.
• Not enough pressure, or driving at an angle.
• Too much torque, e.g. a drill driver set to drill mode.
• Seized screws held by rust, paint or resin.

The sooner you react, the easier it is. Once the bit slips twice: stop, and don’t keep grinding the head round.

Method 1: A new, larger bit and lots of pressure

First try a fresh bit, and for cross heads go one size up or switch type (PZ instead of PH). Push with your body weight in line with the screw and turn slowly by hand or on the lowest drill setting. The bit often still grips in the deeper, undamaged part of the recess.

With hex and Torx heads, a slightly larger Torx bit gently tapped into the rounded recess sometimes does the trick.

Method 2: Rubber band or steel wool as filler

Lay a wide rubber band flat over the screw head and push the bit through it. The rubber fills the worn areas and adds grip. A piece of fine steel wool or a dab of valve grinding paste works too.

Method 3: Penetrating oil and shock for seized screws

For metal screws that are stuck rather than stripped: apply penetrating oil, wait 10–15 minutes, then give the screwdriver a few light taps with a hammer. The vibration breaks up rust in the thread. With screws in wood, it sometimes helps to turn them slightly tighter first to break the thread free.

Method 4: Manual impact driver

The manual impact driver is the most underrated tool in the box. Set it on the screw, select the “loosen” direction and strike it with a hammer. The blow forces the bit into the head and converts into a short twist at the same time. Even rusted screws come loose this way without the bit slipping. It suits metal and solid materials, less so thin sheet metal or furniture panels.

Method 5: Screw extractor (when the head is destroyed)

1. Mark the centre of the head with a centre punch.
2. Drill a few millimetres deep with a metal drill bit sized for your extractor (it’s on the packaging), straight and at low speed.
3. Insert the left-hand-thread extractor and turn it anticlockwise with a tap wrench or spanner. It bites into the hole and takes the screw with it.
4. Turn evenly and don’t jerk or lever, or the brittle extractor may snap.

Tip: With a left-hand drill bit, the screw sometimes comes out while you are still drilling.

Method 6: Pliers or cut a slot

If the head sticks out, grab it with locking pliers or water pump pliers and twist it out. If it is wide enough, cut a slot with a hacksaw or multi-tool and use a large flat-blade screwdriver.

Which method when?

Situation	Best method	Effort
Head slightly rounded, screw not tight	new/larger bit, rubber band	low
Screw rusted in, head still OK	penetrating oil + impact driver	medium
Head completely destroyed	screw extractor	medium to high
Head sticks out	locking pliers, cut a slot	low

Common mistakes

• Carrying on while the bit slips. Every turn makes it worse.
• High drill speed. Slow and controlled is crucial with damaged heads.
• Drilling too big a hole for the extractor. Then there’s not enough material left for it to grip.
• Working without safety glasses. Snapped bit tips are sharp and fast.