How to Remove Limescale from Taps and Shower Glass

Where the white marks come from

Tap water contains dissolved minerals, mainly calcium and magnesium compounds. When a droplet dries on a tap or shower screen, those minerals stay behind. First as an almost invisible film, then after a few weeks as a white ring that combines with soap residue into a stubborn grey layer.

How fast this happens depends on your water hardness. In hard-water areas, a shower screen that isn’t squeegeed looks cloudy within days. It’s not just cosmetic either: in aerators and shower heads, limescale blocks the nozzles, the spray becomes uneven and splashes.

What you need

• Citric acid (liquid or powder) or white vinegar
• A spray bottle
• Soft sponges and microfibre cloths, not a scourer
• An old toothbrush for crevices
• Rubber gloves
• A small bowl or freezer bag for the aerator and shower head

Step by step: descaling taps

1. Mix the solution. Dilute liquid citric acid as directed. For powder, use about 1–2 tablespoons in 500 ml of cold or lukewarm water. Alternatively, mix vinegar and water 1:1.
2. Apply. Spray onto the tap. For thick deposits, soak kitchen roll or a cloth in the solution and wrap it round the tap so the acid stays in place.
3. Leave it. 10–15 minutes is usually enough. Don’t leave acid on chrome for hours.
4. Wipe. Rub with a soft sponge, and use the toothbrush in crevices and at the spout.
5. Rinse thoroughly. Remove all acid residue with clean water. This matters for seals and finishes.
6. Buff dry. Polish with a dry microfibre cloth. Only then does chrome really shine.

Descaling the aerator and shower head

The aerator is the small mesh insert at the end of the tap. It usually unscrews by hand or with the matching key (anticlockwise; a cloth protects the finish from scratches). Soak the parts in citric acid solution for 30–60 minutes, brush, rinse and screw back on. Make sure the washer and meshes go back in the right order. Taking a phone photo first helps.

The shower head is the same. If it won’t come off, fill a freezer bag with the solution, pull it over the head and secure it with a rubber band. After an hour, remove it, rub the nozzles with a finger or brush and run the water for a minute. Many shower heads have rubber nozzles that release limescale when you rub them.

Getting shower glass clear again

Shower screens are large and vertical, so liquid runs off quickly. A foaming spray that clings works better. Apply generously, leave for 15 minutes and wipe with a soft sponge in circular motions. Then rinse well with the shower and squeegee.

Thick, old layers sometimes need two or three rounds. Don’t reach for a blade or hob scraper if the glass is coated. While you’re at it, check the silicone seals: dark spots are more likely mould than limescale. See how to remove mould in the shower.

Surfaces that need extra care

Natural stone such as marble, travertine and limestone contains calcium itself. Acid etches it and leaves dull marks that can’t be polished out. Watch your spray around stone vanity tops and windowsills.

Coated taps in matt black, gold, copper or brass-effect have a thin surface layer. Harsh descalers or long contact times can stain them. A damp cloth with a little washing-up liquid is often enough, plus drying after each use.

Enamel and acrylic baths and shower trays tolerate diluted acid briefly, but not abrasives.

Prevention beats scrubbing

The secret of a sparkling bathroom isn’t a special product but the after-shower routine: squeegee, quick wipe of the tap, done. Do that consistently and you’ll only need to descale every few weeks. Hang the squeegee within reach in the shower so it actually gets used. The same principle applies in the kitchen, see how to descale a kettle.